Preserving Harvested Mushrooms
by John Rahart
Mushroom gathering in New Mexico, especially collecting for the pot, is often sparse, but punctuated with episodes of abundance. Especially during these avalanches of abundance, preserving the harvest and preventing waste can be demanding. People often ask me what I do when I collect at such times Many people continue to press me for a more comprehensive dissertation. so here goes.
1. Blanching and Freezing - This remains my most versatile method of preserving large quantities of mushrooms, especially those requiring rapid or delicate handling, such as Coprinus comatus (shaggy mane). Also, washing in water does not hurt the end product, so mushrooms noted for trapping sand and dirt can be thoroughly washed first.
Method - Washed Mushrooms are taken directly from a cold water wash basin or sink where they have been cleaned, washed and are still soaking in the tub of water with a colander or sieve, drained for a moment and plunged directly into a pot of boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes after water re-boils. They are then removed with a sieve or colander and are plunged into cold water to stop the cooking process. Once cool, the mushrooms are drained and placed in plastic freezer containers. A mass-production line can be set up; blanched product into cold water, while cooling, new raw product into hot blanch liquid, etc. The process becomes very efficient. At the end, I cool the blanching water and place into the containers of mushrooms, leaving enough headspace so freezing won't overfill or rupture the containers (usually 1 to 11/2 inches is fine for most freezer container shapes, I especially prefer small 8oz. yogurt containers; they are a perfect size to drop into a pot of soup (1/2 to 3/4 inch headspace is OK for these). .
Uses - I use these frozen mushrooms in soups and stews throughout the non-collecting months by simply dropping the entire frozen contents into soup 20 minutes to 1/2 hour prior to the soup completion time, letting it simmer the last 20 to 30 minutes and AH! Perfection! It makes especially good beef barley soup with Shaggy manes.
Advantages - Blanching stops enzymatic action and prevents mushrooms
from turning into mush. Washing gets rid of sand and dirt with no adverse effect
on the end product. Texture for soup remains good. Very easy to do large amounts
of mushrooms in a relatively short time. Very convenient to use, just plop
frozen mass directly into soup cooking. Pre-thawing is not necessary nor
desirable. Flavor preservation is exceptional.
Disadvantages - Not as high quality product for uses requiring frying, sauteing,
or crisping of mushrooms, but actually can still be done.
2. Steaming - very similar to blanching in liquid, except steam instead of
liquid is used to blanche
Method - A steamer basket is placed into boiling water bath such
that it remains above the level of the boiling liquid. Mushrooms are steam
blanched two minutes or so. The mushrooms are then cooled either in cold water
bath and then drained and packed in freezer containers, or the mushrooms are
spread directly from the steamer basket onto a cookie sheet sprayed with Pam or
vegetable non-stick, spread into a single layer and then frozen on the cookie
sheet until fully frozen. They can then be freed from the cookie sheet and placed
into freezer bags as individually free mushrooms pieces. These can be used in
soups, stews, etc., or can be placed frozen directly into an ongoing
stir-fry for great results. Do not thaw first. Place a few at a time into cooking
stir-fry and keep the temperature up..
Uses - Soups and stews for frozen water soaked container
mushrooms or stir-fries and sautéed dishes direct from the bag for free-frozen
pieces; also tempura or batter fried using frozen from the bag, batter dipped
still frozen and fried immediately.-AH! Wonderful..
Advantages - Convenient, more versatile than water blanching.
Excellent taste and texture preservation.
Disadvantages - Somewhat more time-consuming and more complicated than
water blanch. Also, does not clean dirt, sand, and grit as well as water
blanching, so pre-selecting the cleanest mushrooms works best for this method
3. Oil or butter sauteing -
than freezing - My favorite method of preserving
Agaricus mushrooms, especially those with anise or almond overtones. Boletes,
Chanterelles, any of the dryer textured mushrooms such as lobster
mushrooms, and Man on horseback (Tricholoma flavovirens) benefit from the
sauté oils and do this method justice.
Method - slice, chopped, or prepare mushroom pieces as preferred. Friday
and butter or olive or walnut boil for any standard fried mushroom
dish, stopping the cooking process slightly before normal and allow to cool
by transferring mushrooms too cooled pie plates, glass or baking dishes, etc.. When cool,
portion mushrooms into small freezer containers and freeze.
To use, simply pop out the portion into a sauté pan with a little of the same
oil or butter used to first freeze. In. Do not pre-thaw.
Advantages - Reproduces the texture and taste of a mushroom sauté
best. Easy and convenient.
Disadvantages - Usually more air exposure inside freezer container;
and air is what causes freezer burned, so may not preserve the quality for as
long in the freezer as those methods excluding air, such as freezing under
broth. Patting mushrooms gently to bottom of the container into solid block and
then placing some plastic wrap directly on mushrooms before covering the
container lid helps some.
4. Drying - The age-old method of drying mushrooms is still
one of the best methods of preserving mushrooms. Boletes edulis are seen
all over Italy, dried and wrapped in often elaborate (and expensive) displays.
Methods vary from good old sun/air drying to machine drying (dehydrators) or
to oven drying. Different methods give somewhat different results, but is mostly
a question of how elaborate and how much you willing to invest to accomplish
this. Many good home-use dehydrators are on the market. Units with temperature
control, such as top-of-the-line American Harvester, are particularly versatile,
especially in humid areas or during spells of rain.
Method - Slice/prepare mushrooms, set on drying trays or racks and sun
dry (protect from insects and flies) or pleasing dehydrator or oven (very low
temperatures 100 degrees Fahrenheit to 150 degrees Fahrenheit). Dry to low
moisture level, place in airtight bags or jars and store. To reconstitute, cover
with warm or hot water 15 minutes to several hours (varies with species) until
plumped up.. Do not use only the water from the tap for your recipes; be sure to
use the soak water from the mushrooms as it is richly flavored. Save it for
other later uses if the recipe does not call for liquid. Freeze it if no
immediate use is at hand. It's worth it. David Aurora mentions that the
pore-masses from Boletes can be dried separately from the mushrooms,
soaked to reconstitute not for the pore masses as they are slimy, but for the
soak liquid reserved after wringing out the masses for uses in gravies, soups,
etc.. It is truly a wonderful use of something otherwise usually discarded.
Advantages - Drying preserves mushrooms for very long periods of time
with little or no deterioration in flavor or quality. Drying actually
intensifies the mushrooms flavor of many species, especially the Boletes.
Convenient in easy to store and use, requiring no special equipment or
refrigeration.
Disadvantages - Drying often toughens or changes mushrooms texture; many
will not fry or sought a after being dried. Sometimes flavor changes character
after drying occurs. Volatile flavors and aromas are often lost. Reconstituting
does not necessarily restore good texture in many cases. Equipment can be
elaborate and expensive.
5 Canning - Since mushrooms have insufficient acid,
they are susceptible to Clostridium botulinum (botulin) contamination and
require pressure canning to be safely canned. Refer to are reliable canning
guide and follow manufacturers specifications and instructions exactly
Advantages - Versatility of product. If properly done, anything can be
canned, so stews, soups, preparations containing mushrooms can be prepared, then
canned.
Disadvantages - Expensive, sometimes finicky equipment is necessary,
complicated processes and preparation possible and very strict adherence to
methods, procedures and techniques is an absolute must. This is not a method
where one can cut corners.
6. Pickling - Pickling is an acid treatment and preservation process for
foods, usually either lactic acid produced by brining or vinegar added directly
to the items preserved. Follow only proven recipes and techniques from reputable
guides. Extension Services and Pickling and Canning books are good sources.
Agaricus, especially the somewhat bland store bought varieties, Shiitakes,
Oyster mushrooms, and firm puffballs all respond well to pickling.
Advantages - Marinated pickle broths give great flavors to mushrooms,
taking bland varieties and giving them some excellent flavors. Great for
parties, catered events, etc.. As antipastos and hors dóeuvres etc. Relatively
easy process to do at home
Disadvantages - Recipes must be proven and techniques adhered to rigidly.
Not a good medium for experimentation on, as improper acid balance could lead to
Botulism or other serious food poisoning.
7. Salting - Can be a preservation method in its own right or can be used
to induce lactic fermentation. In our Aurora's All the Rain Promises
there is an anecdotal reference and recipe for Lactarius deliciosis as
done in Russia. It works and ferments the mushrooms well, but it yields a very
salty product. Less salt risks spoilage before fermentation begins. When I
brought some to the NMMS meeting, many did not mind is all levels, others did:
personal salts likes/dislikes are likely to come into play here. Salting to
dry"" mushrooms is a technique similar to salting anchovies and other fish. The
water is drawn out by the salt and allowed to drain off or evaporate, leaving
behind preserved product. Soaking reconstitute product but often requires
multiple rinses, and as mushrooms flavor is lost this way, it is better to air
dried mushrooms is moderate quantities or more are to be used. But for small
amounts to bring up salt levels of the dish, this remains a very good method.
Advantages - Preservation stable and can actually change the cooking
qualities less than full drying does, so some versatility exists here for
texture with cooking. Easy to do and stable end product
Disadvantages - Mainly in high salt concentration forcing use of smaller
quantities or repeated rinses which leaches flavor needlessly. A first quick,
but thorough rinse to remove salt before the mushrooms absorb much water helps
to minimize this problem.