Mulches for Gardens and Landscapes
Guide H-121
Revised by George W. Dickerson,
Extension Horticulture Specialist
College of Agriculture and Home Economics
New Mexico State University
Mulch is any natural or synthetic material used to cover topsoil
in the garden or home landscape. Mulches serve a number of purposes
including
- reducing soil moisture evaporation,
- ensuring a more even soil moisture supply,
- reducing or preventing weed growth,
- insulating soil from extreme temperature changes,
- preventing mud from splashing on crop surfaces,
- reducing fruit rots (in melons, strawberries, and tomatoes),
- reducing soil crusting,
- reducing soil erosion,
- reducing soil compaction,
- protecting perennial plants from freezing, and
- improving neatness of the garden or landscape.
Organic mulches like grass clippings or compost also may serve as
slow-release sources of nutrients for plant growth. Earthworms
feeding on organic mulches not only will enrich the soil with their
castings, but also will help aerate the soil. Organic mulches may,
however, encourage some pests like sow bugs, snails, and slugs.
Around fruit trees, avoid thick layers of organic mulches, which may
shelter rodents.
Mulch Effects on Temperature
The time of year to apply a mulch depends on the type of mulch
you wish to apply and your objectives. Clear and black plastic
mulches can be applied early in the spring to vegetable gardens to
warm the soil. Black plastics are often preferred, as they will
exclude light and discourage weed growth. Clear plastics are
occasionally used to warm soils more rapidly and to solar-sterilize
soils in the summer to kill weed seeds and disease organisms before
planting.
Natural organic mulches and white plastic mulch applied in the
summer will tend to cool soils. This is important for crops like
strawberries, which do not tolerate extreme heat. Silver reflective
mulches and aluminum foil not only cool soils, but also reflect
light back under leaves, which tends to repel aphids.
Applying natural organic mulches in the garden in the fall before
cold weather will help insulate the soil and extend the growing
season. Potatoes, carrots, and parsnips can be stored in the ground
during the fall and winter using a straw mulch to keep the soil from
freezing. Straw placed around blackberry canes in the fall will help
reduce winter kill problems.
Various rock mulches can be combined with underlying perforated
plastics or landscape fabric (weed barrier) in desert landscapes.
River rock and various colored lava and granite rock offer a number
of color and texture options in the design of these landscapes.
Reflected light from white rock under windows with western and
southern exposures will help warm your house in the winter. Dark
colored rock will retain heat in the landscape and may offer some
frost protection (reradiated heat) for fruit trees in the spring (it
also may encourage early breaking of dormancy).
Applying Mulch
Most coarse, natural organic mulches like straw, bark, and wood
chips should be applied 2-3 inches deep over the whole area to be
mulched. Grass clippings should be allowed to dry out before
applying them to keep them from matting. Do not apply grass
clippings over 1-inch deep. Woody material should not be
incorporated into the soil, as it will tend to tie up nitrogen in
the soil making it unavailable for plant uptake. Do not allow moist
organic mulches to come directly in contact with seedlings as they
may cause seedling disease problems like "damping-off." Mulches are
generally applied to most crops after they have emerged or around
transplants.
Plastic mulches should be perforated to allow air and water
movement into the soil. Holes cut in unperforated plastic for
vegetable transplants should be large enough to accommodate air and
water movement around the bases of the plants.
Soil levels should be 1-3 inches below the level of sidewalks in
desert landscapes where rock mulches are applied to help keep rocks
contained. New plants in the landscape will have better access to
water if the underlying landscape fabrics are sloped slightly toward
the plants. Rocks and fabric may have to be replaced in the future
if blowing sand accumulates allowing weeds to establish themselves.
Types of Mulches
The selection of a specific mulch will depend on its
availability, cost, the crop to be mulched, and the season of the
year. Almost any material that insulates well yet permits gaseous
exchange and moisture penetration will make a satisfactory mulch. A
good mulch should not need frequent renewal and should be non-toxic
to plants, easy to apply, free from disease and weed seed, and not
be so absorbent that it can take moisture away from plants. It
should not pack, blow, wash, ferment, or burn easily.
Many commercially available mulches fulfill most of these
criteria. Quite a few are inexpensive. Decorative barks and rock may
be used for aesthetic value. A coarse, heavy mulch may be needed on
a windy, hillside site.
A soil surface can be covered with either synthetic or natural
mulches. Natural organic mulches will decay over time mixing in with
the topsoil. Such mulches will improve soil structure, improving
both water and air penetration into the soil. Synthetic and rock
mulches will last longer and often require less maintenance.
Natural Materials
Bark - Bark offers outstanding effectiveness and
appearance. It is available in fine, medium, and large sizes,
although medium and coarse grades are best for mulch. Do not
incorporate bark into the soil, as its high carbon content will
cause nitrogen deficiency in plants.
Coffee grounds - This material has rich color and is high
in nitrogen and some trace elements.
Compost - Use finished (well-cured) compost by itself or
under other mulches. It can be mixed with soil before planting.
Corn cobs - Use medium ground, not fine, cobs. The cobs
may be colored for special uses. Additional nitrogen may be
necessary if corn cobs are mixed with soil.
Cornstalks - Cornstalks are very good shredded, or as
whole stalks laid over other mulches in vegetable gardens. They are
good for winter mulch.
Cover crop - Any crop, preferably a legume, that can be
grown on spare land and cut can be used for mulch.
Grass clippings - Grass will mat and ferment if used fresh
in a thick layer and alone, so only use it dry and in a thin layer.
It is better mixed with other dry mulches. Do not use clippings if
lawn has been treated with herbicides, and avoid grass like Bermuda
that propagates easily.
Gravel, marble chips, crushed stone - Pea gravel or larger
can be used over a weed barrier or alone. These mulches tend to warm
the soil, so use them for heat-loving plants. Do not use marble
around acid-soil loving plants.
Hay and field grass - Hay and field grass should be mowed
before it goes to seed. Legume hays are rich in nitrogen. Loose hay
will blow in wind and these mulches can carry weed seed.
Leafmold - This mulch is best placed around shrubs and on
bare plots as leaves fall. Shred the leaves to keep them from
packing.
Manure - Use well-rotted and strawy manure for best
results, and watch out for weed seed. Use manure sparingly on
vegetable gardens, roses, and other plants. Fresh manure can burn
tender roots and can smell during the first couple of days after
application.
Peatmoss - Fine-textured types dry out and crust badly;
instead use chunky peat (sphagnum). Peatmoss is very expensive and
hard to wet.
Peanut hulls - This is an excellent mulch and is very
attractive. It blows in the wind unless partially cultivated into
the soil.
Pecan shells - This long-lasting mulch has a nice color
and good texture. However, birds and rodents may become a problem,
and it blows in wind unless partially cultivated into the soil.
Pine needles - Pine needles are a very good mulch,
especially for acid-soil-loving plants (such as strawberries). Pine
needles are light, airy, and attractive but can be a fire hazard.
Pomace (apple or grape) - The odor may be somewhat heavy
for the first couple of weeks. This mulch is good for heavy soil and
it decomposes very slowly and releases some nutrients to soil.
Sawdust (preferably decomposed) - Apply sawdust 1-inch
deep, but do not incorporate it into the soil as its high carbon
content will cause nitrogen deficiency in plants.
Straw - This is a good general mulch used for winter
protection and on paths between vegetable rows. It may carry weed
seed.
Wood chips - This is a long lasting mulch. Apply it 2-4
inches deep. It decomposes slowly. Do not incorporate into the soil
as its high carbon content will cause nitrogen deficiency in plants.
NOTE: If plants mulched with high-carbon materials become
chlorotic, additional nitrogen may need to be applied to plants.
Synthetic Mulches
Cloth - Burlap is sometimes used between rows in vegetable
gardens.
Erosion-control netting and blankets - Use these materials
for holding mulch and grass seedlings on steep slopes.
Fiberglass matting - This is a very effective mulch
because it is permeable to air and water and its glass fibers may
repel certain pests. Cover it with bark or similar organic mulch for
better appearance.
Newspaper - Use three to six sheets thick and cover it
with organic mulches for better appearance and to speed
decomposition.
Perlite, vermiculite - Horticultural grades are useful
around tiny seedlings or on plants in containers. It can blow badly.
Plastic film - These mulches are unattractive alone. For
best results, plastic should be well perforated to allow aeration
and moisture penetration. Clear plastic warms soil but permits weed
growth, whereas black plastic warms soil and deters weed growth.
White plastic cools soils and deters weed. Other colors are
available and have various effects on plants. Silver reflective
mulches (cool soil) reflect light, which tends to repel aphids
(aluminum foil has a similar effect). Plastic is often used under
rockscaping to discourage weed growth, but this is not recommended
unless the plastic is perforated. Soil should be damp before
applying plastic.
Woven weed barrier - This mulch allows moisture and oxygen
to penetrate the soil, encouraging roots to penetrate more deeply.
Use it in landscaping as a substitute for black plastic. It deters
weed growth.
Originally written by Esteban Herrera, Extension
Horticulturist. |