Budding, or bud grafting, is the union of one bud and a small piece of bark from the scion with a rootstock (Figure 2.3). It is especially useful when scion material is limited. It is also faster and forms a stronger union than grafting.

Patch budding. Plants with thick bark should be patch-budded (Figure 2.3). This is done while the plants are actively growing so their bark slips easily. Remove a rectangular piece of bark from the rootstock. Cover this wound with a bud and matching piece of bark from the scion. If the rootstock’s bark is thicker than that of the scion, pare it down to meet the thinner bark so that when the union is wrapped the patch will be held firmly in place.

Chip budding. This budding method can be used when the bark is not slipping (Figure 2.3). Slice downward into the rootstock at a 45° angle through 1/4" of the wood. Make a second cut about 1 inch long upward from the first cut. Remove a bud and attending chip of bark and wood from the scion, shaped so that it fits the rootstock wound. Fit the bud chip to the stock and wrap the union.

T-budding. This is the most commonly used budding technique (Figure 2.3). When the bark is slipping, make a vertical cut (same axis as the rootstock) through the bark of the rootstock while avoiding any buds on the stock. Make a horizontal cut at the top of the vertical cut (in a T-shape) and loosen the bark by twisting the knife at the intersection. Remove a shield-shaped piece of the scion, including a bud, some bark and a thin section of wood. Push the shield under the loosened stock bark and wrap the union, leaving the bud exposed.

Care of buds. Place the bud in the stock in August. Force the bud to develop the following spring by cutting the stock off 3 to 4 inches above the bud. The new shoot may be tied to the resulting stub to prevent damage from wind. After the shoot has made a strong union with the stock, cut the stub off close to the budded area.

Although technical procedures for aseptic culture of plant cells, tissues and organs are as diverse as the plant material on which they are practiced and a simplified general procedure can be followed in the home. All that is needed are a few basic supplies that can be easily obtained at the local grocery store. The procedures outlined here can be used in the home to propagate various species of plants that may be easy to propagate, such as African violets, coleus and chrysanthemums or difficult to propagate, as with orchids and ferns.

Medium preparation. For 2 pints of medium, mix the following ingredients in a 1 quart home canning jar.

1/8 cup sugar

1 teaspoon all purpose soluble fertilizer mixture. Check the label to make sure it has all of the major and minor elements, especially ammonium nitrate. If the latter is lacking, add 1/3 teaspoon of a 35-0-0 soluble fertilizer.

1 tablet (100 mg) of inositol (myo-inositol), which can be obtained at most health food stores.

1/4 of a pulverized vitamin tablet that has 1 to 2 mg of thiamine.

4 tablespoons coconut milk (cytokinin source) drained from a fresh coconut. Any extra can be frozen and used later.

3 to 4 grains (1/400 teaspoon!) of a commercial rooting compound which has 0.1 active ingredient IBA.

Fill the jar with distilled or deionized water. If not available, substitute water that has been boiled for several minutes. Shake the mixture and make sure all materials have dissolved.

Baby food jars with lids or other heat resistant glass receptacles with lids can be used as individual culture jars. They should be filled halfway with cotton or paper to support the plant material. The medium should be poured into each culture bottle to the point where the support material is just above the solution.

When all the bottles contain the medium and have the lids loosely screwed on, they are ready to be sterilized. This can be done by placing them in a pressure cooker and sterilizing them under pressure for 30 minutes or by heating them in an oven at 320°F for 4 hours. After removing them from the sterilizer, place them in a clean area and allow the medium to cool. If the bottles will not be used for several days, wrap groups of culture bottles in foil before sterilizing and then sterilize the whole package. The bottles can be removed and cooled with

out removing the foil cover. Sterilized water, tweezers and razor blades, which will be needed later, can be prepared in the same manner.

Plant disinfestation and culture. Once the growing medium is sterilized and cooled, the plant material can be prepared for culture. Because plants usually harbor bacterial and fungal spores, they must be cleaned (disinfected) before placement on the sterile medium. Otherwise, bacteria and fungi may grow faster than the plants and dominate the culture.

Various plant parts can be cultured, but small, actively growing portions usually result in the most vigorous plantlets. For example, ferns are most readily propagated by using only 1/2 inch of the tip of a rhizome. For other species, 1/2 to 1 inch of the shoot tip is sufficient. Remove leaves attached to the tip and discard. Place the plant part into a solution of 1 part commercial bleach to 9 parts water for 8 to 10 minutes, completely submerging all plant tissue in the bleach solution. After soaking, rinse off excess bleach by dropping the plant part into sterile water. Remember, once the plant material has been in the bleach, it has been disinfested and should only be touched with sterile tweezers.

After the plant material has been rinsed, remove any bleach-damaged tissue with a sterile razor blade. Then remove the cap of a culture bottle containing sterile medium, place the plant part onto the support material in the bottle making sure that it is not completely submerged in the medium, and recap quickly.

Transferring should be done in a clean environment and as quickly as possible. Scrub hands and counter tops with soap and water just before beginning to disinfest plant material. Rubbing alcohol or a dilute bleach solution can be used to sterilize the working surface.

After all plants have been cultured, place them in a warm, well-lit (no direct sunlight) environment to encourage growth. If contamination of the medium has occurred, it should be obvious within 3 to 4 days. Remove and wash contaminated culture bottles as quickly as possible to prevent the spread to uncontaminated cultures.

When plantlets have grown to sufficient size, transplant them into soil. Handle them as gently as possible because the plants are leaving a warm, humid environment for a cool, dry one. After transplanting, water the plants thoroughly and place them in a clear plastic bag for several days. Gradually remove the bag to acclimate the plants to their new environment. Start with 1 hour per day and gradually increase the time out of the bag over a 2 week period. When the plants are strong enough, dispense with the bag altogether.

The main problem in propagation is how to ensure the survival of the propagated material until it establishes a new young plant. In plant propagation it is important to provide an environment that allows for minimum water loss from the plant material, adequate light for photosynthesis and good soil drainage. Commercially, many types of propagation units and related equipment are available for propagation on a large scale. However, for the home gardener this would not be physically or economically feasible. The home gardener can be successful in propagating many plant materials in a homemade propagation tent.

A homemade propagation tent is a cheap and simple arrangement that provides a sufficiently effective closed environment for easily propagated plants. Fill a pot, tray or shallow pan with the potting medium. Fill the container with cuttings and cover with a polyethylene bag supported at either end by a looped wire or dowel rod. This will prevent the bag from touching the cuttings. Seal the end of the bag with a rubber band. This technique makes a very effective mini greenhouse that allows the home gardener to be very successful in asexual propagation on many plant materials.

*For an interesting explanation of chimeras go to this site

Click here: Origin, Development and Propagation of Chimeras

Plants can also be propagated using sexual propagation. Sexual propagation involves the union of the pollen from the male with the egg from the female in order to produce a seed. The seed is made up of the following three parts: the outer seed coat, which protects the seed; the endosperm, which is a food reserve; and the embryo which is the young plant itself. When a seed matures and is put in a favorable environment, it will germinate and begin active growth. This radicle is the first part of the seedling to emerge from the seed. It will develop into the primary root from which root hairs and lateral roots will grow. The portion of the seedling between the radicle and the first leaflike structure is called the hyopcotyl. The seed leaves (cotyledons) encase the embryo and are usually different in shape from leaves produced by the mature plant. Plants producing one cotyledon fall into the group of monocotyledons. Plants producing two seed leaves are called dicotyledons.

To obtain quality plants, start with good quality seed from a reliable dealer. Choose varieties adapted to your area and make selections based on desired size, color and habit of growth. Many new vegetable and flower varieties are hybrids, which may cost a little more than open pollinated types. However, hybrid plants usually have more vigor, more uniformity and better production than nonhybrids. Some hybrids also have specific disease resistance or other unique cultural characteristics.

Although some seed will keep for several years if stored properly, it is advisable to purchase only enough seed for use in the current year. Good seed should not contain weeds or seeds of any other crop and should have little debris. Printing on the seed packet usually indicates essential information about the variety, the year for which the seeds were packaged, percentage of germination to be expected and notes of any chemical seed treatment. If seeds are obtained well in advance of the actual sowing date or if they are stored surplus seeds, keep them in a cool, dry place. Laminated foil packets help ensure dry storage. Paper packets are best kept in tightly closed jars or containers and maintained around 40°F in low humidity.

Some gardeners save seed from their own gardens; however, such seed is the result of random pollination by insects or other natural agents and may not produce plants typical of the parents. This is especially true of the many hybrid varieties. (See Chapter 6 for information on saving vegetable seed.)